Côte d’Ivoire is in the midst of a civil conflict which has left the country split between the rebel-controlled north and the government-controlled south. Unfortunately, the nexus between diamonds and civil strife continues unabated in the country. Although a UN peacekeeping operation and French troops have helped maintain a tentative peace, each side has been rearming, according to a recent report by a UN monitoring group. Natural resources such as diamonds are helping to fund those arms purchases. This is because, despite the restrictions on diamond exports from Côte d’Ivoire, rough diamonds are still being smuggled into neighboring countries. According to the report by the UN monitoring group, “[t]he embargo on the export of Ivorian rough diamonds has neither prevented, nor significantly minimized, the risk of their entry onto international diamond markets.”

The Security Council has promised to review the question of sanctions on Côte d’Ivoire following presidential elections scheduled for this month. However, given the ineffectiveness of the sanctions regime to date, the question of sanctions is not really the critical issue here. The continued flow of diamonds out of Côte d’Ivoire underscores a more fundamental point: Concerned consumers will continue to have good reason to doubt the integrity of the global diamond supply chain until a more robust diamond tracking system can be established.

Brilliant Earth continues to advocate a tracking system that requires diamonds to be tracked and labeled through every stage of the production process, from mining through to cutting and polishing. The Kimberley Process simply is not designed to accomplish this goal and therefore can never guarantee that diamonds are ethically mined consistent with fair labor practices and in an environmentally sustainable manner. We at Brilliant Earth continue to carry our exclusive line of diamonds whose origins are fully traceable and which are produced according to the highest environmental and labor standards. Our goal is to drive change by serving as a model for a new way of doing business in the diamond industry. We hope that one day the kinds of standards that we adhere to will become the norm throughout the diamond industry as a whole.

Since late 2008, Zimbabwe’s armed forces have been deployed in the diamond fields in the Marange district of eastern Zimbabwe. According to Human Rights Watch, police and army officials have been mining for diamonds using forced labor by children and adults. There have been numerous reports of rape, torture, and beatings. In taking control of the mining fields last year, the army killed about 200 people and deposited them in a mass grave. The army remains under the control of the Zimbabwe African National Union-Patriotic Front, the party led by Zimbabwean President Robert Mugabe.

In July, a KP review mission recommended suspending Zimbabwe from the KP for a period of six months. But last week, the KP announced that Zimbabwe had until June 2010 to show that it was in compliance with a KP “work plan.” The details of that work plan have not yet been finalized, but early indications suggest that the plan will call for increased monitoring and a phased withdrawal of the Zimbabwean military. In essence, the KP has taken the position that it is better to keep Zimbabwe within the KP fold and work with it to address the human rights violations than to remove it from the KP entirely until it can show that things have changed.

Although it is tempting to take this argument seriously, the KP’s position has some basic problems. First, it is hard to take the KP at its word, given the political ties between Bernard Esau, the KP chair, and the ruling Zimbabwean regime. Brilliant Earth hopes whatever “work plan” is adopted will put a halt to the abuses taking place in Zimbabwe. However, we are concerned that the work plan could easily serve as a vehicle for permitting those abuses to continue. Second, if the human rights violations documented by Human Rights Watch are not severe enough to get a country suspended from the KP, then KP membership really has very little meaning. This decision really brings the KP’s credibility to a new low. Third, the KP’s decision will permit diamonds from Zimbabwe to continue to be sold on the international diamond market with the KP stamp of approval. Many consumers will be misled into believing that their diamond purchases are ethically-mined and conflict-free.

As Brilliant Earth has noted before, one of the root problems with the KP is the narrowness of its objectives. The KP’s core mission is to prevent the sale of “conflict diamonds,” narrowly defined as diamonds used to fund conflicts against recognized governments. Countries belonging to the KP must not produce or import conflict diamonds. The KP has been much more tentative in linking its membership to human rights abuses associated with diamond mining. The case of Zimbabwe shows the inadequacy of the KP’s approach. Murder, rape, torture, and forced labor should not be treated as side issues. These kinds of abuses should be at the heart of what the KP opposes.

The Pebble Mine project would use open pit mining, a mining technique which degrades the landscape and generates huge amounts of waste, to extract minerals from a state-owned site near Bristol Bay in Southwest Alaska. The mine would become the largest open pit mine in North America. Although this could mean more economic activity in the region, Bristol Bay is also home to the world’s largest sockeye salmon fishery. Pollutants from the mine would disrupt the commercial fishing industry, presently the engine of the local economy. Also, the salmon are a traditional food source for the region’s residents, many of them native peoples.

Environmental activists, commercial fishermen, local community groups, and others have been voicing their opposition to the mine. Notably, a delegation of Pebble Mine opponents attended an Anglo American shareholder meeting in April to express their opposition. The new poll, assuming it is accurate, provides evidence that opposition to the mine is not limited to a small group of activists, but is widespread among the people who would be most affected. The opposition is quite strong. According to the survey, 73 percent of residents strongly oppose the mine and 6 percent somewhat oppose it. These are powerful numbers. Area residents are saying that on balance, the mine would be a raw deal for them.

Brilliant Earth joins the residents of the Bristol Bay region in opposing the establishment of the Pebble Mine. We offer only recycled and responsibly-sourced gold, and will not purchase gold from the mine, should it be established. We are optimistic that this new poll will be an important step in galvanizing opposition to the Pebble Mine. The poll is also an excellent demonstration of the need to take into account the perspective of nearby residents when launching or conducting or mining operations.

After months of international concern over the human rights violations raging in Zimbabwe’s diamond fields, the KP finally ordered a review mission. The review team confirmed that Zimbabwe was practicing serious non-compliance with KP standards, as well as extreme human rights abuses. The delegation finally issued a recommendation that Zimbabwe be suspended from the scheme. In spite of this, Zimbabwe still has not been officially suspended from the KP.

Zimbabwe illustrates two major problems with the KP that prevent it from effectively addressing human rights abuses in the diamond industry. First, the KP lacks strong decision-making and governance and is highly politicized which prevents it from taking action against member countries. And, second, the KP has a huge gap regarding human rights abuses, which are simply not covered in its mandate.

Politics have prevented the KP from being effective at curbing conflict diamonds. Immediately after the KP review team issued a recommendation that Zimbabwe be suspended from the scheme, the recommendation was quickly condemned by the KP chair, Bernhard Esau who is friendly with the Zimbabwe ruling regime. Esau publically declared that the suspension will never occur (a statement that he later denied making) and was also quoted saying that the conclusions of the KP review mission would “not be taken seriously.” Esau has full veto power within the scheme which requires unanimity despite the many conflicts of interest between member nation states. The remaining governing body of the KP is unable to enforce the suspension of Zimbabwe to due to Esau’s single veto. The KP is effectively asserting that business and politics take priority over human rights and a clean, ethical diamond trade.

Notwithstanding its internal flaws, the KP is not sensitive to human rights at its core. The KP was created to limit the flow of “conflict diamonds”, where conflict diamonds are narrowly defined as diamonds used to fund conflicts against recognized governments. Despite the obvious and extreme human rights abuses and in the face of clamoring human rights groups and NGOs, Esau recently stated: “The KP is not a human rights organization. That is what we have the United Nations for.” While most would consider this statement to be boldly insensitive, sadly Esau is correct the KP was never intended to address human rights abuses such as those demonstrated in Zimbabwe and in its existence has never proven itself capable of responsible management. In its current state, the KP cannot be trusted to impose ethical standards on the diamond industry or guarantee conflict-free diamonds for its consumers.

Murder, forced labor and the militarization of Zimbabwe’s diamond fields has continued at an alarming rate, and unethical diamonds are still routinely and legally exported from the country into the world diamond market and sold by jewelers who claim that they are “conflict free.” Brilliant Earth was founded to offer conflict free, ethically sourced diamonds whose certification goes far beyond the Kimberley Process to demonstrate fair labor practices with no human rights abuses. As diamond mining conditions in Zimbabwe, Angola, DRC, Liberia, Sierra Leone and various other countries continue to demonstrate human rights abuses, our mission to raise awareness and promote change within the diamond industry continues. The system is sadly far from demonstrating substantive changes that would stand up to the full scrutiny of the jewelry buying public. Until such time as these changes are embraced, Brilliant Earth will continue to lead the charge to provide ethically sourced alternatives. It is up to us to live the changes we want to see in the world.

Last month, investigators for the Kimberley Process conducted a long overdue mission to Angola, the first since 2005. The team visited northern Angola, where recent reports of diamond smuggling and the mistreatment of foreign miners have made for tense border relations with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). As suspected, the current investigation uncovered numerous accounts of rape and brutality against miners from neighboring countries.

In spite of these disturbing reports, Angola Mining Minister Mankenda Ambroise denied all responsibility. When asked about the human rights violations that occurred under his watch, he insisted on blaming the illegal miners for entering his country, revealing a scapegoat attitude that has become all too common among leaders in the diamond industry. Predictably symptomatic of the Kimberley Process’s deteriorating state, Process Chair Bernard Esau had the gall to publically declare the investigation a success and actually refused to comment on the reports of mass rape and brutality.

From a Brilliant Earth perspective, acknowledging human injustice and working to eliminate it must be an integral part of the Kimberley Process; otherwise it can never claim to be successful at eradicating conflict diamonds. We are once again disappointed at the Kimberley Process’s decision not to take a stance on the diamond violence occurring in Angola. 

Angola’s development will undoubtedly continue to rely upon the diamond industry, but enforcing ethical diamond standards will help ensure the country’s political, financial and environmental success in the future. Brilliant Earth continues to strictly support diamond mines that operate according to fair trade standards while encouraging consumers to demand an ethical product. Our objective is to continue to support African diamonds, such as our Namibian diamonds, which contribute to prosperity and development while maintaining high ethical standards. We hope one day soon, human rights and environmental abuses will subside in Angola and we can offer fair trade, Angolan diamonds.

“My first trip to Brilliant Earth was not for the usual reasons that most women visit. I would love to say I was arriving to purchase a diamond halo set engagement ring or in search of a yellow cushion sapphire as a gift to myself. I did not come for a job interview either. No, I ended up at Brilliant Earth on a completely different note.

Last spring, I had just gotten back from conducting a research study in Sierra Leone on corporate social responsibility in the mining industry. In case you were unaware, Sierra Leone is in the post-conflict rebuilding phase after a twelve-year civil war that ravaged the country. The RUF rebel forces occupied the diamond-mining region and used the extracted stones as a means of funding their movement. Unfortunately, the people of Sierra Leone were the victims of the young rebel force. They made their way all the way from the East of the country to the western capital city of Freetown twice during the course of the war, torturing, raping, killing, and enlisting those they met on their path. Upon having this experience in Sierra Leone, and witnessing the rubble of the diamond fueled civil war, I was keen to meet with executives from a corporation that was succeeding to provide socially responsible diamonds, and more particularly a company that was sourcing their diamonds from Africa and providing the local population with the benefits. Brilliant Earth was the obvious choice.

My first encounter with Brilliant Earth was interviewing Beth, who not only seemed well versed in the countries and regions in which diamond mining was taking place, but also genuinely cared about whether the mining was socially responsible. Brilliant Earth really valued my passion for making a difference in the diamond industry and, before I knew it, I was taken on as a summer intern. For those of you who have gone through the process, you may know being an intern can be limited to coffee runs and fax machines - but my experience was vastly different. They not only received me at the office, but actually mentored me. I spent the summer learning about digital marketing and being exposed to all aspects of corporate retail, which is exactly what I wanted. Not only that, but I have also been truly lucky to work at a place who shares the same values that I hold dear. I have had a great experience.

Now that I’m returning to school in the fall to start my Masters, I have to say that Brilliant Earth’s ethical practices are truly upheld because the team there is comprised of conscientious people. Yes, it is their job to uphold the mission of the company. Yes, it increases their profit if the mission is furthered. However, they personally seem to care that the product is trustworthy and that company is a trusting environment in which to work. With a for-profit company that has a socially conscious mission, that seems to me to be extremely important.

It’s been a great summer!”

From the company: We’re thrilled to have had the experience to work with Alexis and are excited that she will be joining us full time after she completes her Masters at Stanford.

1. I’d like to send a thank you to your company for putting so much thought and responsible action into offering ethical diamond diamonds and recycled precious metals. It makes the gift that much more meaningful to us. We’re both globally minded geologists, and thanks to your company, I’m able to practice what I preach and smile a little bigger each time I see the ring on my beautiful wife-to-be’s finger. Damon, Ozark, MO - August 2009

2. To have the opportunity to be able to design something with the person you will be spending the rest of your life with is one thing. But, to get to have those special pieces be made a reality by such thoughtful people whom go out of their way to make sure that not even one person is disrespected along the way is priceless. To be wearing the best made by the best, makes my man and I feel on top of the world! We had some crazy ideas and requests for our custom designed rings, and were pretty nervous about what we were asking for. But, BE gave us nothing but smiles, reassurance, excitement….and then perfection! It really is better than anything I ever imagined. They are setting better standards for the jewelry industry and how we treat each other globally! Joy, Oakland, CA - November, 2008

3. Brilliant Earth exceeded all of my expectations. Being a cynical guy I expected an experience similar to buying a car where I get pressured into things I do not need, jerked around on the price, and walk out of the showroom with the distinct feeling that I just got screwed. In reality, I am extremely pleased with every aspect of my buying experience at Brilliant Earth and cannot be happier about the company’s direct alignment with the value I see in protecting human and environmental rights. Chris, Sacramento, CA - August, 2009

4. I can’t imagine being engaged and not having Brilliant Earth in our lives. The founders are committed to sustainability and ethics and their company is true to their mission and so much more. As another Yelper said, there’s no blood on these rings. They are the model of customer service in every sense of the word. I will never forget the day I picked up the ring and how nervous and excited I was all at once. When I finally saw the ring, I knew I had made the right decision to go with BE. Thank you Eric and the entire BE team. A.J. Pal Alto CA - December 2007

5. I proposed to Alyssa on Friday, and she said yes! She was absolutely floored by the ring, and was even happier with it than I could have imagined. I just wanted to say thank you for your excellent service, advice, and responsiveness. I will definitely recommend Brilliant Earth to any friends in the market for an engagement ring. Thanks! Leif, New York, NY - September, 2009

6. THE BEST ENGAGEMENT RING! Socially conscious, awesome service and highest quality craftsmanship. Brilliant Earth’s environmental and social missions were the reasons my fiancée originally contacted them. But what was most impressive was their incredible level of service throughout the whole process. The entire Brilliant Earth team did everything that we could ask and offered a ton of helpful suggestions. They really went above and beyond, from helping design the ring to selecting a gorgeous conflict-free diamond. In the end, the ring was exactly what my fiancée had in mind, and I couldn’t be happier! I would recommend Brilliant Earth to anybody who is intrigued by conflict-free diamonds or recycled gold, and to anybody who wants a beautiful engagement ring. Lauren, New York, NY - June, 2009

7. I picked up the ring today. It is BEAUTIFUL. I appreciate all the help I received from Danielle in picking it out and customizing it. There are many companies and jewelry stores that assume that just because a female is purchasing a diamond ring that she is purchasing it for herself. There are many same sex couples that purchase engagement rings for each other and I will highly recommend your company because of your professionalism and respect to ALL couples when making a purchase like this. Jill, Cincinnati, OH - June 2009

8. When I decided that I was going to propose to my girlfriend I knew right away that the diamond I would give her would be a conflict free Canadian diamond. I searched many places to find something that met all my needs and was amazed to find that you not only met my needs but greatly surpassed them. From using 100% recycled precious metals, to donating 5% of the profits, to even making the beautiful box that the ring comes in out of sustainable wood, your attention to important issues pleased and impressed me. Everyone that I communicated with, be it over the phone, through email or both, was extremely amazing. I was kept up to date and informed on the status of my ring. The ring itself is gorgeous, it looks even better than I imagined it, which is a relief when you’re spending a substantial amount of money on something that you don’t see until it’s delivered. Thanks again for the great service and the stunning ring! Darren, Ottowa, ON - February 2009

9. Thanks again for all of your help! I picked the package up last night and to say that everything exceeded my expectations would be a gross understatement. It makes me very happy to think that this ring may be passed down in my family from generation to generation and that it does carry with it not only a message of love but social responsibility. So without getting too terribly sentimental please pass on my most sincere gratitude to everybody that was involved with this. Alex, Reno, NV - January 2009

10. I can’t even begin to thank you for making this possible. I picked up the ring from you, went home, and then took Massimo to the “No On 8″ candlelight vigil at San Francisco City Hall, which is the spot where gay marriage first took place. There were 2000 people there, and I pulled some strings and got called up as the last speaker - and to Massimo’s surprise I spoke of hope and a bright tomorrow. And I said “16,000 LGBT couples have already been married in this state - let’s make it 16,001. And so, I would like to ask my partner Massimo if he would marry me” - and I got down on one knee and pulled out the ring and he was shocked and couldn’t believe it, and kissed me and said “Yes” into the microphone in front of this huge crowd that was chanting “Let love win! Let love win!” Really what they needed to know is that no matter what bigotry exists, love will win - even if it takes little setbacks now and then. We called our parents and brothers and sisters from the street, and our calls kept getting interrupted by people walking by and wishing us health and happiness. Massimo LOVED his ring!! Barak, San Francisco, CA - November 2008

After the discovery of the rare mineral, land disputes had occurred between the mine owner, who had mining rights over major deposits, and the artisanal mining population. He had been receiving death threats for the past three years. His son stated that although they had been threatened by “bandits” in the past, he believed the organizer of the attack was politically connected and was attempting to gain access to the land.

A man has been arrested for the murder in the town of Taveta, attempting to flee to Tanzania. The government is still searching for the men who brandished the weapons at the scene of the crime.

Brilliant Earth is saddened by the death of Campbell Bridges, and we will post updates as they develop.

1. Look for a jeweler with a clear conflict-free diamond policy. Their policy should be both in print and listed on their official website. In addition to ensuring Kimberley Process compliance, the policy should address social and environmental issues. Avoid policies that do not address human rights abuses or environmental impact, or those that rely solely on compliance with the Kimberley Process.

On top of the printed policy, make sure that your jeweler can answer your questions regarding your gem’s origins. They should be able to identify the name of the mine and provide independent verification of its social and environmental responsibility. They should also be able to tell you how they track their stones from mine to the finished product.

2. Look for a jeweler that uses recycled metals wherever possible. Much commercial gold comes from mines in developing countries that employ children and adults in inhumane conditions and leave behind massive quantities of toxic waste, including cyanide, mercury, and arsenic. Less than 25% of gold used in jewelry comes from recycled sources when in fact gold and platinum can be endlessly recycled without compromise to their quality and without the environmental impact of newly mined metals.

3. Look for a jeweler with a wide range of ring designs. Every gal is different, and you’ll want to make sure that your ring design perfectly suits your style and personality. Brilliant Earth offers five unique design collections: Classic, Natural, Antique, Glamorous and Modern. Our rings are available with numerous different stones, settings and materials, ensuring that you end up with a perfect style fit.

4. Look for a jeweler with full custom-design services and capabilities. If a bride can’t find the ring she wants, she should be able to create it - she’s going to wear this ring for the rest of her life, after all! Brilliant Earth’s Custom Engagement Rings ensure she gets exactly what she’s looking for.

5. Look for a jeweler that carries a wide selection of alternative gemstones and metals. Precious colored gemstones create gorgeous accents or a beautiful centerpiece and many jewelers lack broad inventory and expertise with these stones. You may also be interested in alternative metals, such as rose gold and palladium. Brilliant Earth offers a variety of recycled or responsibly obtained precious metals, in addition to sapphires, emeralds and rubies of ethical origin

6. Look for a jeweler that never compromises on quality. Brilliant Earth provides the highest quality jewelry originating from pure sources and produced using socially responsible practices.

7. Look for a jeweler that provides excellent customer service and convenience. When making one of the biggest purchases of your life, you don’t want any of your questions to go unanswered. Brilliant Earth’s customer service representatives are here to answer your questions, explain your options, arrange your delivery, and help you make those important decisions.

8. Look for a jeweler with a glowing reputation. A good track record and dazzling customer reviews say it best - you’ll get what you pay for and be thrilled with the results. Check out our Customer Testimonials for some of the many ways in which we’ve earned our great reputation.

9. Look for a jeweler with an airtight Warranty Policy. If something should go wrong during the manufacturing process or you discover a flaw in your ring, you should be able to return or fix it, no questions asked. Brilliant Earth offers a free lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects on all of our fine jewelry.

10. Look for a jeweler that gives back. At Brilliant Earth, we firmly believe that high quality jewelry need not come at great human or environmental cost. We are proud of our efforts to support mining communities with gemology training and medical aid, as well as to promote land restoration in gem-producing regions. Brilliant Earth donates 5% of our profits to communities in Africa that have been affected by the diamond industry.

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The Kimberley Process delegation has recommended a suspension of at least six months, until it can be determined that Zimbabwe is meeting Kimberley Process standards. Should it be approved, the suspension would prevent Zimbabwe from legal direct export of rough diamonds. However, in past cases of KP suspension, countries have been suspected of continuing to export indirectly through porous borders to nearby jurisdictions that continue to operate under the Kimberley Process umbrella.

Following months of international debate, Brilliant Earth is glad to see the KP take a first step toward accountability for Zimbabwe’s human rights abuses. Nonetheless, this is only a beginning. Despite good intentions, the Kimberley Process has not proven itself to reliably seal off conduits for the trade in conflict diamonds and other illicit gems. Moreover, the scheme is not designed to address or monitor human rights, labor practices, or environmental abuses. We hope that this long-overdue suspension is a forerunner of further positive change in the industry.